As we did during our previous Caminos, we kept an eye out for snacking opportunities. Grapes were out as they were sprayed with something and we were sure the vineyard owners would dislike grazing peregrinos. The one thing we did find was black berries. They were definitely black berries but some sort of inferior generic brand: small, seedy, and tasteless. Otherwise we didn't find anything. I did try a raw acorn -- it was awful . I didn't try a chestnut so I can't report on those.
For hundreds of years much of the Via de la Plata was also the Canada Real de la Plata -- a herding trail. We decided that the thousands of cows, sheep, and goats over-grazed and wiped out all of the good stuff.
Immediately out of Banos, the trail makes a long moderate climb, followed by forty kilometers of a hilly region. Nothing too steep or long but consistently hilly (and much greener than further south). We passed more Roman stuff: two bridges -- the single arch one was a bit off the trail and seemed to be original (even the walking surface) and we passed so many miliarios that we stopped taking pictures of them. Though the trail is scenically modest we continued to find it interesting for its history and sense of isolation. The lack of spectacle encouraged us to pay attention to the details and the fauna and flora which carried their own rewards.
Around noon we entered Calzada Del Bejar and from the start were irritated by the place. First, a tout for an albergue accosted us and gave a really hard sell trying to get us to stop at his place. It was way too early and he was just trying to make a living, but still --- we had to be rude to get rid of him. A couple of blocks later we passed a guy holding a moderately aggressive dog. Just as we passed he let the damned thing loose and it made a couple of feigned attacks and tried to nip our heels -- the asshat just ignored it. At the other end of town we passed two women sitting in their doorway and talking with two men. One woman was holding a puppy and one of the guys kept pulling its tail hard enough to make it yelp, then he would laugh --- such a manly humorist.
There was nothing about Calzada Del Bejar that tempted us to stop, but it was supposed to have a bar, we needed coffee, and the next coffee possibility was hours away.
At the edge of town we turned back, went up a side street and did find a bar -- it was closed.
The travails of the Camino.
We sat at one of the bar's shaded outside tables and tucked into our lunch: bread, cheese, and an apple. Halfway through we were saved as the owner came and opened the bar -- so we got our coffee con leche (two each) as well as our go-to dessert: Magnum Blanco Mini ice cream bars. And as we sat enjoying our lunch (the day wasn't hot yet, just pleasantly warm) the village took a turn for the better.
A giant ground shaking front loader pulled up beside the bar, did some maneuvering to get in just the right spot and shut down. The driver entered the bar.
There was a steady stream of old guys coming in for a beer or wine or coffee or a coke, and a chat. Some came and stayed, some left, some left then returned. A few gave the outside table-soccer men a spin but none started playing.
An older guy in a yellow jersey (no helmet) rode by on a folding bicycle -- he didn't stop, but he did four more around the town circuits.
A woman across the town square started mopping the outside walls of her house -- her mop had an extra long handle.
Three cows came running up the street followed by a young woman in black running shorts and a black tank top -- sprinting to get ahead of the cows to direct them onto a side street.
She succeeded, then the initial three cows were followed by twelve more -- urged on by an older guy and a dog.
The annoying dog kept running around pestering people.
At random people would come and go, cars would come and go. An older guy drove up, had half a drink and a chat with a friend then drove away, leaving his drink on the table. A bit later he came back with his wife, drank most (but not all) of his drink, then left again.
The annoying little village Calzada Del Bejar had surprisingly turned into a Sunday noon happening place -- then the church bell started.
The church bell rang, rang, and rang some more. I asked dw: "Do you think they're ever going to get tired of ringing that thing?" Finally, we put on our packs and left. And the bell kept ringing. (we're going to keep ringing this bell until YOU DAMN WELL COME TO CHURCH) and the bell kept ringing. When we were nearly out of earshot (twenty minutes if it was a second) the bell stopped and we might have heard a faint, but definite cheer from the village.
N.B. -- The Magnum Blanco Mini is 100ml and sells for 1 euro. The Magnum Blanco Regular is 180ml and sells for 2 euros. Don't be fooled -- the mini is clearly the better deal. With both, the sticks are the vague "8" shape and can be used to eat yogurt.
____________________
----the king it is who tolls
And he rolls, rolls, rolls,
Rolls
A Paean from the Bells!
And his merry bosom swells
With the Paean of the bells!
And he dances, and he yells,
Keeping time, time, time,
In a sort of Runic rhyme,
To the Paean of the bells ---
Of the bells:
Keeping Time, time, time
In a sort of Runic thyme,
To the sobbing of the bells ---
Keeping time, time, time
As he knells, knells, knells,
In a happy Runic rhyme,
To the rolling of the bells
Of the bells, bells, bells:
To the tolling of the bells,
Of the bells, bells, bells ---
To the moaning and groaning of the bells.
EDGAR ALLAN POE
____________________
The symbol & is a combination of the Latin letters "e" and "t" -- "et" -- meaning "and". The word "ampersand" is a corruption of "and 'per se' (by itself) and" and the symbol was originally used to distinguish a letter from a word -- such as "a" as the letter, or "a" as the word -- a dog -- for example. All of this is leading to the fact that the ampersand (&) looks like a dog dragging its butt across the floor.
____________________
The Violaceous Trogon (a bird native to southern Mexico, and central and northern South America) will sometimes dig a hole for its nest in an active wasps nest.
____________________
No matter how old or young a person is, with discipline that person can go without food for the rest of their lives.
____________________
Pavlov was once sitting in a bar having a drink. The phone rang and he jumped up and said: "Damn, I forgot to feed the dogs."
____________________
and so it goes. DJA
For hundreds of years much of the Via de la Plata was also the Canada Real de la Plata -- a herding trail. We decided that the thousands of cows, sheep, and goats over-grazed and wiped out all of the good stuff.
 |
| Leaving Banos de Montemayor |
Around noon we entered Calzada Del Bejar and from the start were irritated by the place. First, a tout for an albergue accosted us and gave a really hard sell trying to get us to stop at his place. It was way too early and he was just trying to make a living, but still --- we had to be rude to get rid of him. A couple of blocks later we passed a guy holding a moderately aggressive dog. Just as we passed he let the damned thing loose and it made a couple of feigned attacks and tried to nip our heels -- the asshat just ignored it. At the other end of town we passed two women sitting in their doorway and talking with two men. One woman was holding a puppy and one of the guys kept pulling its tail hard enough to make it yelp, then he would laugh --- such a manly humorist.
There was nothing about Calzada Del Bejar that tempted us to stop, but it was supposed to have a bar, we needed coffee, and the next coffee possibility was hours away.
At the edge of town we turned back, went up a side street and did find a bar -- it was closed.
The travails of the Camino.
We sat at one of the bar's shaded outside tables and tucked into our lunch: bread, cheese, and an apple. Halfway through we were saved as the owner came and opened the bar -- so we got our coffee con leche (two each) as well as our go-to dessert: Magnum Blanco Mini ice cream bars. And as we sat enjoying our lunch (the day wasn't hot yet, just pleasantly warm) the village took a turn for the better.
A giant ground shaking front loader pulled up beside the bar, did some maneuvering to get in just the right spot and shut down. The driver entered the bar.
There was a steady stream of old guys coming in for a beer or wine or coffee or a coke, and a chat. Some came and stayed, some left, some left then returned. A few gave the outside table-soccer men a spin but none started playing.
An older guy in a yellow jersey (no helmet) rode by on a folding bicycle -- he didn't stop, but he did four more around the town circuits.
A woman across the town square started mopping the outside walls of her house -- her mop had an extra long handle.
A bread truck pulled up, parked, the driver sold a few loaves, then entered the bar for a drink and a chat.
The bar's music started: a Spanish cover band blasting "Wild Thing" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9m3w5Teygs.Three cows came running up the street followed by a young woman in black running shorts and a black tank top -- sprinting to get ahead of the cows to direct them onto a side street.
She succeeded, then the initial three cows were followed by twelve more -- urged on by an older guy and a dog.
The annoying dog kept running around pestering people.
At random people would come and go, cars would come and go. An older guy drove up, had half a drink and a chat with a friend then drove away, leaving his drink on the table. A bit later he came back with his wife, drank most (but not all) of his drink, then left again.
The annoying little village Calzada Del Bejar had surprisingly turned into a Sunday noon happening place -- then the church bell started.
The church bell rang, rang, and rang some more. I asked dw: "Do you think they're ever going to get tired of ringing that thing?" Finally, we put on our packs and left. And the bell kept ringing. (we're going to keep ringing this bell until YOU DAMN WELL COME TO CHURCH) and the bell kept ringing. When we were nearly out of earshot (twenty minutes if it was a second) the bell stopped and we might have heard a faint, but definite cheer from the village.
 |
| A few miles after Calzada Del Bejar |
 |
| A different lunch and writing notes for the blog |
____________________
----the king it is who tolls
And he rolls, rolls, rolls,
Rolls
A Paean from the Bells!
And his merry bosom swells
With the Paean of the bells!
And he dances, and he yells,
Keeping time, time, time,
In a sort of Runic rhyme,
To the Paean of the bells ---
Of the bells:
Keeping Time, time, time
In a sort of Runic thyme,
To the sobbing of the bells ---
Keeping time, time, time
As he knells, knells, knells,
In a happy Runic rhyme,
To the rolling of the bells
Of the bells, bells, bells:
To the tolling of the bells,
Of the bells, bells, bells ---
To the moaning and groaning of the bells.
EDGAR ALLAN POE
____________________
The symbol & is a combination of the Latin letters "e" and "t" -- "et" -- meaning "and". The word "ampersand" is a corruption of "and 'per se' (by itself) and" and the symbol was originally used to distinguish a letter from a word -- such as "a" as the letter, or "a" as the word -- a dog -- for example. All of this is leading to the fact that the ampersand (&) looks like a dog dragging its butt across the floor.
____________________
The Violaceous Trogon (a bird native to southern Mexico, and central and northern South America) will sometimes dig a hole for its nest in an active wasps nest.
____________________
No matter how old or young a person is, with discipline that person can go without food for the rest of their lives.
____________________
Pavlov was once sitting in a bar having a drink. The phone rang and he jumped up and said: "Damn, I forgot to feed the dogs."
____________________
 |
| Not the bell, but one we got to ring at a later date. We didn't keep it up for 40 minutes. |
and so it goes. DJA
